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South Africa


Drakensberg Mountains
Harkerville Coast
Tsitsikamma National Park

Drakensberg

Chain ladders up the escarpment in Drakensberg mountains, South Africa
The chain ladders that lead to the top of the escarpment on a six day hike through the Northern Drakensberg mountains (February 2017)
Chain ladders on the hike up to the Amphitheater in Drakensberg
Pushing up with your legs is the key here, pulling with your arms takes the ladder off the wall
Sentinel peak campsite in Drakensberg
Arriving at our first camp below Sentinel Peak
Notice about robberies
Theft is still possible in the Drakensberg depending on who you ask (2017).  I wanted the safety of the group and went with Alex Nail.  
Sunrise at Tugela Falls and the amphitheatre in Drakensberg, South Africa
Distant view of our campsite, which was close to the top of Tugela Falls
Tugela Falls in Drakensberg mountains, South Africa
Tugela Falls, second highest waterfall in the world (3,000ft+)
Working on photography
Alex showing us the polarizer trick, which brought out the colors of the rainbow in the waterfall.
Open fields with sheep
We had short distances to cover during the day, usually through open fields without a trail.  We would wake up early every morning (4-5am) to climb a hill to watch sunrise.
Fire at camp
We had a local guide named Zee and a group of porters to help us.  Sabine and my tentmate Matthias are also here staying warm by the fire.
Icidi pass campsite
Icidi Pass camp (#2)
Icidi pass sunrise in Drakensberg South Africa
Icidi Pass sunrise
Fangs pass hike in Drakensberg South Africa
On the third day we reached Fangs Pass, certainly one of highlights of the trek
Madonna and her worshipers at Fangs Pass in Drakensberg
Madonna and her worshipers
Fangs pass campsite
Fangs Pass camp (#3)
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Alex woke us up when the milky way aligned with the pass
Sunrise at Fangs pass in Drakensberg South Africa
We went back to sleep for a few hours before climbing the hill in the dark for sunrise
Wildflowers at Fangs Pass in Drakensberg
Hikers in the group
David, Nathi and Jeffery
Basotho and the incoming storm
This Basotho called me over to take a picture so that he could look at himself on my camera
Thunderstorm in the Drakensberg mountains
Thunderstorms were common in the afternoon and evening.  Lightning is probably the most dangerous aspect of the hike as the poisonous snakes seen at lower elevations do not live on the top of the escarpment.
Mweni pinnacles hike, Drakensberg, South Africa
Mweni Pinnacles
Hanging Valley camp in Drakensberg mountains, South Africa
Hanging Valley camp (#4)
Sunrise in the Drakensberg mountains near the Hanging valleys
Sunrise on day five was a surprise as we hiked with our rain gear to reach a viewpoint
Hiking in the Drakensberg sunrise
Our group on the move
Mweni cutback on the Drakensberg hike in South Africa
The Mweni Cutback
Rockeries campsite in South Africa
The Rockeries camp (#5)
Rockeries pass sunrise in the Drakensberg hike in South Africa
We had another beautiful sunrise before our descent down Rockeries Pass
Looking up towards the mountains in the Drakensberg

Harkerville Coast

Harkerville coast hike in South Africa
The two day Harkerville Coast trail was my favorite of the ocean treks
Harkerville coastal trail in the southern part of South Africa
A rugged coastline that must be hiked with at least two people for safety concerns I believe, twisting an ankle out here could mean no rescue for days.  I hired a guide to meet the two person requirement
Chain section of the Harkerville coast hiking trail
Chains, ladders and boulder hopping
Ladders and orange rocks on the Harkerville coast
Harkerville coast hiking trail in South Africa
Sinclair hut on the Harkerville coastal hiking trail
The huts were empty, the reward for the extra effort
Walking along the Harkerville coast
View along the Harkerville coastal hike

Otter Trail

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The Otter Trail starts at Storms River Camp, perhaps the most beautiful place on earth that can be reached by car
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I took it slow the first day with little ground to cover to reach the first hut, having two meals at the restaurant and then going for a swim with the tourists at "The Waterfall"
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Rock Hyrax or "Dassie", scientifically speaking they are closely related to the elephant
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White-breasted Cormorants
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There are four huts on the Otter Trail with small distances to walk each day (27 miles one way).  The huts are typically booked 12 months in advance
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Gerrith and Cindy were early risers, I would go back to bed once they left
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The trail was closed the week before I arrived from wildfires.  The trail on day two was smoky and still burning.  Most of the coastline was spared from the fire since there are such sharp drop-offs to the ocean
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Large insects
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Smoky sunset near the Geelhoutbos
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Genets lined the trees around the campfire at Scott Hut
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Day three was the most scenic, my favorite stretch of the trail
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Tannin gives the rivers a brown color and interesting flavor.  While tannin is not thought to be harmful, some of the major rivers are polluted from towns upstream.  They gave us a list of rivers to avoid at check-in (2018)
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Close to twenty baboons on the coast
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The hut locations are excellent and they are well supplied with firewood
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Oakhurst huts from across the Lottering River
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The sun returned on day four, which is planned around a low tide crossing of the Bloukrans River
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Waiting for the tide to go down...
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We needed to study the map as the water was high from a neap tide.  The large group had done the Otter six times and had never seen the river more than knee/ankle deep
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The sandbar goes all the way across when taking route C, the easiest route in high water with no swimming involved.  I took route C to route D.  Gerrith and Cindy followed my lead taking route C then swimming to route B.  I wanted to avoid route A as the current was strong, but the others had no choice since they were not comfortable climbing.
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The rock was solid on the climb up route D and fairly straightforward
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The group of six were the last to cross
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Which became progressively more interesting as they moved towards the "A gulley", the three ladies in the back could not swim
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The leader pulling them into the gulley and out of the ocean current
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Climbing out of the gulley
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The weather was perfect on the late evening walk to the final hut
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Sunset from the cliffs above Andre Hut

Dolphin Trail

Cabin on the Dolphin Trail
The Dolphin trail is the slackpacking route along the Tsitsikamma coast.  The more expensive alternative to the popular Otter Trail, yet also easier to arrange on short notice
Storms River Suspension bridge
The Dolphin Trail goes east from the Storms River Suspension Bridge, while the Otter Trail goes west
Baboon at the trash can at Storms River camp
Baboons know their way around camp, all smiles when they find the perfect treat
Day one of the Dolphin Trail in Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa
The Dolphin Trail has two days of hiking and three nights at lodges, the first hiking day is mostly through the forest on high ground.  We saw snakes, monkeys and more baboons
Forest walk on the Dolphin trail
Porcupine quill
Ruth found a porcupine quill
Golf course at one of the lodges
The lodge had a golf course, this elevated green made out of concreate gave me a good deal of trouble
Misty mountain reserve lodge along the Dolphin trail in South Africa
The lodges would cook breakfast and dinner, a luxury walk for sure
Stairs along the trail
On the second day of hiking, the trail was along the coast
Dolphin trail hike along the Tsitsikamma Coast in South Africa
Tsitsikamma coastal hike on the Dolphin trail
Swimming pool along the Indian Ocean
We found a perfect swimming hole.  The Swiss girls were afraid of the ocean so I swam alone

Robberg Nature Preserve

Seals down on the beach
The first half of the hike along the eastern side was hot with no wind
The point in the Robberg Nature Preserve
Then the hike gets better when you turn the corner at "The Point"
Robberg Nature Preserve loop hike, the island section
"The Island" is the best spot near the end of the loop.  There is a beach here where you can cool off.
Robberg Nature Preserve in South Africa
Storms approaching in the Robberg South Africa

Cape Town

Boulder beach in Cape town South Africa
I cancelled plans of hiking in Cape Town due to fires, but did visit Boulder Beach to see the African penguins.
African penguins at Boulder Beach in South africa

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Photos, text and design by Dan Arnold
Contact: darnoldhiking@gmail.com

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